Climbing in the Fränkische Schweiz is an extraordinary rediscovery of Franken, the place where I did grew up. The Fränkische Schweiz is an area within Bavaria inbetween the triangle Nurnberg, Bamberg and Bayreuth which is known on the one hand for beer and on the other hand for climbing. The Fränkische Schweiz is a part of the Frankenjura which is an extraordinary geological region: beautiful valleys with beautiful streams, dense forests and high rising rocks shape the area where some of the nicest but also hardest climbing walls in Bavaria can be found. Even if I did grew up in Franken, the Fränkische Schweiz is far away from my hometown which might have been the reason why I did not discover the Fränkische Schweiz until now.
The walls in the Fränkische Schweiz are not the easiest. I am climbing since almost 4 years in climbing halls and only 1 year outdoors. Hence, I am usually looking for more easy walls. In Fränkische Schweiz there are only few easy walls. During our weekend we tried to climb the following areas:
Intensivstation
Breitenberg Südwand
Dornröschenwand
While the Intensivstation offers the widest range of more easy and more difficult walls, climbing there was not possible for us as it the walls are located on a private property which is closed for climbers on weekends who do not stay in the lodge. However, we got the hint to try the Breitenberg Südwand. However, the next time we are in the area and if it is not on the weekend we will visit the Intensivstation again.
https://www.thecrag.com/de/klettern/germany/frankenjura/puttlach/area/337182870
The Breitenberg Südwand offers a wide range of not so difficult walls. It is probably on the more popoular areas in the Fränkische Schweiz. We spend there almost 6 hours climbing the different routes and enjoyed the walls very much. We can recommend visiting the Breitenberg Südwand.
https://www.thecrag.com/de/klettern/germany/frankenjura/gossweinstein/area/260494569
The next day we tried the Dornröschenwand. The Dornröschenwand offers more difficults routes, but also some few more easy ones. We spend there almost 2 hours climbing. We did enjoy the more easy routes and can recommend visting the Dornröschenwand.
https://www.thecrag.com/de/klettern/germany/frankenjura/dornroschenwand